Diamonds that are cut other than round are commonly called Fancy Cut. Just like the rounds, the proportions of the cut of each shape will be a key factor in the determination of how much light escapes the Diamond and enters your eye. While the round brilliant takes up over 80% of the Diamond shapes sold today, fancies have their own special fans.
Try to select a Diamond that has a VVS to SI grade with a color in the D to I range for the ultimate appeal.
Each shape has qualities and characteristics that make it more or less attractive to the individual who views it, kind of like your favorite ice cream flavor. Remember, not everyone likes chocolate.
Diamond Shapes
Princess Cuts
A favorite for engagement rings, the Princess if fast becoming one of the most popular fancy cut shapes. While they are often cut in a slight rectangle shape, most opt for the square or near square proportions when selecting the Diamond. Note that it has square corners.
Emerald Cuts
The Emerald cut, unlike the cuts above, is meant to be shown in a rectangular style, and it is this shape which makes it distinctive from the other cuts. They can be cut too long or too shallow and the ideal proportion is one that has the length-to-width ratio between 1.3 and 1.4. A Princess cut diamond should have a 1.0 to 1.1 ratio to look square, while an Emerald will have the length longer than the width and when the measurements are divided, they yield the ratio above.
Radiant Cuts
The Radiant cut is very similar to the Princess, but you should note that the corners of the Radiant are cut, not square as they appear on the Princess. Again, while Radiants can be cut slightly rectangular, they show off their real beauty when they are cut almost square.
Asscher Cuts
The Asscher is very similar to the Emerald above. The difference is that this one is meant to be square and not rectangular, meaning that the ratio should be 1.0 to 1.05 as shown above. Like the Emerald cut, the pavilion is cut with rectangular shapes.
Pear Cuts
The Pear cut, often called a tear drop cut, is quite different than any above because of the rounded end and the point shown. The proportions can be altered such that the Diamond can look longer or shorter, which can have the same effect upon one's finger. A longer, slimmer Diamond can have the effect of making the finger appear thinner also!
Marquise Cuts
This stone is unique in that it has two points and matches no other shapes. Yet, when trillions, pears, rounds or baguettes are shown along side in the mounting, it creates a stunning look. The raw Diamond will often determine the shape that the final Diamond takes, and the Marquise will utilize most of the raw Diamond weight. Also note that, like the Pear, the stone has a slimming effect on the finger, making it appear longer and thinner than it really is.
Heart Cuts
Considered by many to be the ultimate sign of "I love you." Some like the broad look while others opt for the traditional and yet others like the slimmer looking heart. All will yield different amounts of light reflected back to your eye. An attractive cut whether alone or with side stones.
Oval Cuts
Those looking for something a little different, but not too far off from the traditional round shape, often turn to this cut. It is generally accepted by the trade that the maximum brilliance comes from Diamonds that have a length-to-width ratio of between 1.3 and 1.6 in order to gain the most from the cut.
Trillions & Baguettes
While not cuts that usually can stand alone in a mounting as the only stone, these stones add much to any of the stones above. The Trillion is considered a triangular cut that often takes the place of small pears as a side stone accent while the baguette, coming in both tapered and straight shape, is more along the lines of a longer emerald cut Diamond. Both are great accent side stones.
The Round Brilliant Cut
Traditionally, more of these are sold than any other shape. One of the reasons being that the Ideal cut Round Brilliant Diamond has been shown to reflect back the maximum amount of light that can be reflected in the Diamond...this and the fact that it is one of the oldest cuts around. A Brilliant cut Diamond is one that has 58 facets, as many of the Diamonds above do. But none wield the brilliance and fire of the round.
Years ago, an earlier cut called the European Cut, also often called the Old Mine cut was the prevalent style. It had proportions that did not lend itself to the ideal of maximum light reflection due to having higher pavilions and smaller tables.
No matter which shape you select, the manner in which it is cut and polished will ultimately determine how the Diamond looks when finally set.
Just like not all 1957 Corvettes are equal, not all 1 carat Diamonds are equal, they just weigh the same!
"Fancies"
